La Barbe, Reigate

While other eateries have come and gone, the classic French cuisine at La Barbe is still going strong after 25 years says Hector Nunns

When French gourmet concedes this country has got the hang of eating and drinking, we can all give ourselves a big pat on the back.

However, the more deserving plaudits should perhaps go to a restaurant that has for 25 years provided a perfect venue to test that appreciation.

A quarter of a century ago owner Serge Tassi, along with business partner Antoine Jalley, took over La Barbe in Reigate. As it enjoys the silver jubilee celebrations, La Barbe remains a paean to food in the classic French tradition.

A heavyweight reputation means that expectations are high these days, but Serge is justifiably proud of his project's longevity.

He said: "We have always emphasised the French-ness of La Barbe - there are other places, especially in London, where restaurants try to offer a bit of everything.

"But outside London we have found that people like to come for a night out to enjoy a certain type of food - and we are staying true to what we do best.

"Many things have changed for us as we have grown, and I have also definitely seen tastes alter over the 25 years.

"Compared to when we started a lot more of the general public are going out to eat and they know so much more about food and wine."

Having scaled a few culinary peaks, Serge now also has Mount Everest on his radar.

The native of Provence will be celebrating his 50th birthday during a charity-raising trek to base camp at 18,000 feet next spring, in aid of the British Heart Foundation.

And such efforts for that cause should offset any occasional health-conscious agonising induced by La Barbe's rather superior sauces.

On arrival it soon transpires that, far from resting on hard-earned laurels, Serge and his team have been assiduously polishing them.

There are many small hallmarks of finesse - the space between tables, the staggering of reservation times to help the chef, and serving on plates that suit the dish, rather than all match.

The decor is understated, bright, light and fresh - after 25 years, these premises have not been allowed to go stale.

And it draws the reaction from my former hotel-owner wife that La Barbe looks 'loved', the highest praise she is likely to bestow on a restaurant's appearance.

Brittany-raised head chef Laurent Pacaud said: "We are not slaves to the latest food fashion, the essence of the menu is and has always been classic French."

And the merest glance at the offerings was all that was required to confirm this.

Our party of three began the meal with a 'Kir La Barbe' - champagne with daily different syrups. This one was lavender, and made for an appetite-whetting aperitif.

After some fresh baguette and butter and marinated olives and onions, for starters I chose the pan-fried chicken livers with a red-wine risotto.

The presentation, as it was to be throughout the evening, was immaculate - the livers melted in the mouth, and the risotto proved an excellent accompaniment.

Sarah's duck, home smoked with salad and pears poached in a juniper berry syrup, was delicious and exactly the requisite shade of pink.

While my brother-in-law's seafood salad, complemented by roasted red onions and courgettes, boasted a tasty, fresh array of prawns and mussels.

For her main course Sarah chose the roasted chicken breast, which was full of flavour and served with a rich wild mushroom sauce and hand-made bacon ravioli.

My grilled beef fillet, in a tarragon, shallots and butter sauce, arrived cooked to perfection, together with roasted chateau potatoes and grilled leeks.

And Steven's sea bass, so good he would almost have preferred it on its own, was served filled with spinach and fish mousse with crab bisque, and then French beans and new potatoes.

The side order of gratin dauphinois was the epitome of a French potato dish, baked to perfection, while the selection of haricots verts were just crunchy enough.

We somehow then managed a raspberry mille feuille, a strawberry charlotte and La Barbe's own homage to bread and butter pudding - pan-fried bread with apple cooked in butter, with toffee sauce and pear sorbet - with coffees to finish.

The service, in keeping with so much else, was of a very high standard with our waitress and the duty manager always on hand to help, but never oppressive.

There are also useful suggestions on the menu about which wines might suit your food - we settled on an excellent bottle of Chateau de Come.

Serge admitted: "You might pay a little bit more with us, but for this type of restaurant in our market, we offer very good value for money."

And that is really the point about La Barbe. A three-course meal for three people, including the almost obligatory kirs, wine and coffees, may come in at around £150.

But you are getting not just a meal, but a genuine experience. Vive la difference - and here's to the next 25 years.